One look at the makeup by for the Dior autumn/winter 2019 fashion show held in Paris yesterday and you could be forgiven for thinking that the Dior Beauty creative and image director Peter Philips was inspired by Maria Grazia Chiuri herself; the creative director of the fashion house is well known for her signature black-kholed eye.
Actually the references were taken from her moodboard for the show: some reportage – or early street style – black and white photographs of 1950’s London Teddy girls. ‘Her research is always amazing,’ says Philips. ‘She’s got the best moodboards and find things..I’ve been here at Dior for 5 years and still discovering things thanks to her.’
Plus, says Philips, ‘it’s a very strong collection. A little bit rock’n’roll but still pretty. It’s a balance. A lot of tartans, black, green – but lace and amazing embroideries also.’ That meant makeup wise that ‘you just didn’t much more than a a strong eye. And all the girls are wearing hats so the idea was very glowy skin with matte eyes’. Plus, adds Philips, ‘I know of Maria Grazia and she’s not a lipstick girl. She’s an eye girl.’
Product-wise it was simple. Waterproof Eyeliner Crayon in Noir Trinidad – think ink liner – used like an eyeshadow on the lid of the eye; no skin prep was need to make it work that little bit harder. Top lashes were primed with a coat of Diorshow Maximizer 3D on top lashes ‘as a good base to create volume’ and then Diorshow Pump’n’volume Mascara in Black Pump. And the drawn on lash effect under the eye was created using Diorshow on Stage Liner in Matte Black.
No blush or contour was needed because of the shadow from the brim of the hats but Dior Backstage Face and Body Foundation was used as the base for the face with a dash of Diorskin Undercover Concealer and a dab of Flash Lumizer to add highlights. Lips were natural with an application of Dior Addict Stellar Shine in Mirage.
It’s a look says Philips that can work for anyone: at the test they had four models all with different skin tones. And easy to scale up or down by simply using less liner: ‘The more you wear it becomes a block or you can go more feathery.’
And although backstage is not a place where Philips trials prototype products from the labs – ‘I can’t take the risk!’ – it is a place that inspires new products. After the makeup trials he briefed the lab last week ‘that we need a cream eyeshadow. This [the liner] is a great product and we have it in many colours but if you want to go more radical then you need something more radical.’ And rather than test on models at the show he’s often a tester himself, most recently for a new concealer that’s in the pipeline. ‘With my lines,’ he laughs pointing at his crow’s feet, ‘I’m a good test model for that. Especially for concealer when it runs into the creases.’ It’s a much Philips’s job to know what we want as what we don’t want.
Feature by Edwina Ings-Chambers